The Struggles of Everyday Life in Yangon Amid Political Turmoil

Yangon, Myanmar’s vibrant former capital, appears to be a lively urban center at first glance. In its bustling downtown, commuters hurry past street vendors, while diners seek refuge beneath colorful parasols. The city’s roads are filled with crowded buses and cars, and as the sun sets, young people gather to capture the perfect moment in front of the stunning Sule Pagoda, which shines brightly against the twilight sky.

However, beneath the surface, the reality for many residents is one of uncertainty and fear. Nearly five years after the military staged a coup that ousted the then de facto leader Aung San Suu Kyi, the junta is preparing to conduct its first elections since the takeover—a move it claims will restore democracy. Critics, including the United Nations and Western governments, have dismissed the electoral process, which is set to unfold in three phases concluding on January 25, as a facade.

Living in Fear

“We are always living in fear,” a commuter expressed during a brief chat. “Before the coup, we were full of hope for the future. Now, everything has changed,” she continued, unwilling to share her name, emphasizing the pervasive fear among the citizens of Yangon.

“We cannot freely express our thoughts,” she added, echoing the sentiments of many others who were reluctant to speak for long.

Following the coup on February 1, 2021, Yangon witnessed massive protests, with hundreds of thousands demanding a return to democratic rule—efforts that were met with brutal repression from the military. By the end of March, more than 400 protestors had been killed, and thousands more arrested. Many citizens sought refuge in rural areas, forming resistance groups that sometimes cooperated with longstanding ethnic armed organizations. By late 2023, ongoing conflict had engulfed two-thirds of the nation.

Desperate Circumstances

While Yangon remains relatively untouched by the fierce fighting that plagues other regions, life in the city is still fraught with unease. “Yangon is no longer the happy place it once was,” lamented an online influencer using the name Hnin Sandar. “My friends advise against discussing politics, even in casual settings like taxis or buses, because those in power are always listening.” She described a pervasive sense of confinement, saying, “It feels like I’m living in jail.”

Images of Aung San Suu Kyi, once celebrated throughout the city, have been systematically removed. Streets have adapted to worsening power shortages, with generators scattered along pavements. In the evenings, the city quiets down, and while some young people flock to bars in search of an escape, most stay home, fearful of arrest or conscription into the military’s ongoing civil war.

“Everyone knows someone who has been taken off the street,” shared Aung Moe, a resident. He recounted the story of his friend, who was abducted and demanded a ransom. His family could not pay the $1,200, and he has not been heard from since.

The Impact of War on Daily Life

With the military’s enactment of mandatory conscription in 2024, many young men fled to avoid being forced into conflict. Meanwhile, Ei, a garment factory worker from conflict-ridden Rakhine state, has gone seven years without seeing her family. She is tormented by the decision to leave them in such peril. “I wish I could escape everything, even for just a week, and not worry about anything for once,” she said, overwhelmed by the stress of her situation.

Her overtime hours have dwindled due to safety concerns traveling home late at night, and her small side business, selling cosmetics, has suffered as people have fled the city. Inflation has surged, fueled by the devaluation of the kyat, which has plummeted by 80% since the coup. According to the UN, Myanmar’s GDP has contracted by 9% since 2020, undoing much of the economic progress the country made during its prior decade-long transition toward democracy.

Shifts in the City’s Landscape

The rapid transformation that Myanmar experienced over the past decade is still evident in Yangon. Following the country’s opening to the world, foreign investments poured in, leading to the development of luxury hotels, shopping malls, and new housing. The poverty rate had nearly halved from 48.2% in 2005 to 24.8% in 2017, according to the World Bank.

Today, however, many international businesses have pulled out, and tourism has vanished. At Bogyoke Aung San Market, vendors offer traditional crafts and textiles that once attracted global visitors, but business has slowed. “Before the coup, we were pursuing our hopes and dreams, but now we are just trying to survive,” Hnin Sandar reflected.

The Upcoming Elections

The upcoming elections are being overshadowed by doubt and unease. A young activist, currently exiled in Thailand, expressed hope for the future but acknowledged that overcoming the military’s dominance is a long road ahead. “We never expected to resolve this in five years, but we’re committed to resisting,” he stated, predicting it might take another five to ten years.

Activists fear that the elections, occurring during a time when the junta, bolstered by external support, is regaining ground, may bolster its legitimacy on the global stage. In the lead-up, polling stations were filled with unsettling propaganda while armed police kept a watchful eye on voters.

As the junta reported a 52% turnout—lower than previous elections—many citizens felt compelled to vote out of fear of repercussions. Large portions of the nation remained excluded from the process due to escalating violence. Despite the regime’s dismissal of criticism, many in Yangon expressed doubts about whether the impending elections could effect any real change.

A young man who participated in earlier protests voiced skepticism about the current situation, stating, “They want to create the illusion of democracy, but we all know the outcome: there’s no real competition.” He chose not to vote, reflecting the quiet act of defiance that resonated among many in the city.

*Names have been changed for privacy.